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A winemaking tradition as long as France’s is bound to produce a few historic vineyard sites here and there. But when some rosy-cheeked monk or abbot—the wine bloggers of their age—singles out a specific plot, you know you have something truly special. In his 1777 history of Sancerre, the abbot Poupart wrote that “the Bouffants hillside is one of the best I know in our Sancerre area.” Judging by the contents of Roger Neveu’s 2018 Sancerre Côtes des Embouffants—a fresh-cut-grass-and-citrus-inflected Sauvignon Blanc of incredible precision—that statement remains true to this day.